Category Archives: Eating Out

Joan’s On Third (My latest for the L.A. Times)

Joan's On Third, L.A. Times

 

Read my opening report here

More photos

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The Gadarene Swine (L.A. Times)

Gadarene Swine Scouting Report, L.A. Times

Read the scouting report here

More photos here

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Roots by Black Hogg (L.A. Times)

ROOTS at Black Hogg Scouting Report, L.A. TimesRead the scouting report here

More photos here

Roots at Black Hogg L.A. Times Scouting Report by Jo Stougaard

 

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Perfecto Rocher’s Paella

I can’t stop thinking about this lobster paella by Perfect Rocher. It’s only available on Sundays at Smoke, Oil, Salt on Melrose in Hollywood.

Read Jonathan Gold’s review here, and do go if you’ve never had authentic paella. It’s simply life-changing!

Perfect Rocher's Paella Sunday

Paella de Llamatol with Patagonia Shrimp, Garlic Lemon Aioli, Bomba
Photo by Jo Stougaard

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First Look: Petit Trois by Jo Stougaard

Read my L.A. Times piece about the Petit Trois opening here.

Petit Trois Opening Article

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The Daniel O’Connell – Adelaide (South Australia)

One of the best things about traveling (in my humble opinion) is discovering the unexpected. Even though I’m one of those ridiculously organized people who plan out each day before departing (my husband hates this), as an avid traveler, I do appreciate the joys of an occasional, itinerary mishap.

Ox Heart, Oyster, Caper, Cornichons at The Daniel O'Connell, Adelaide AustraliaA cancelled flight could mean an unplanned excursion to an archeological site in Greece. A wrong turn on a remote Japanese island could lead to a fabulous, hidden izayaka. Even something as simple as an unscheduled, free evening abroad could turn out to be an absolute EPIC experience.

Last September, enroute from Melbourne to Adelaide (start to my Australia trip here), I was informed that after checking into the hotel, I’d be on my own for dinner. I’d had an exhilerating week covering a media preview of the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival, a non-stop schedule of restaurants, wine events and lectures, so I almost opted to tuck into my hotel bed and catch up on sleep.

Instead, I caffeinated and sent out a tweet to friends on Twitter, “Where should I eat in #Adelaide tonight”?

Social media is a terrific tool for travelers, especially solo travelers. I’ve asked friends online for help with directions, shoe repair suggestions and even reached out when I’ve felt a bit homesick.

I got a few, quick responses to my Adelaide tweet, but the one that intrigued me the most was from Sydney, Australian chef @darrenmfc. He tweeted back, “check out @PhilWhitmarsh @PubAndDining“.

After a bit of research, my heart started racing. @PubAndDining aka The Daniel O’Connell, was quite the “nose to tail” restaurant, a la Fergus Henderson’s St. John, which is my favorite spot in London.

From The Daniel O’Connell website:

“Nose to Tail” is both a menu style and philosophy for us at the Daniel O’Connell. Traditionally it is a term used to describe whole beast dining where both the primary and the secondary cuts of a beast are utilised in the dining experience.

Believing that it is responsible and sustainable for us to use all that is fresh and available at any given time we take a more holistic approach and adopt a “no waste” philosophy to all that we do.

About the chefs via FaceBook:

The Two Chefs

Head Chef, Aaron Gillespie, started off his career in Adelaide pubs, at the age of 16. Now after stints at The Manse, The Science Exchange and Grace the Establishment, Aaron is excited to get behind the stoves of The Daniel O’Connell to continue to build his reputation by creating an iconic dining destination.

Joining him is Sous Chef Phil Whitmarsh, a loveable rogue, who was trained in some of the most notable kitchens of London and Paris, experiencing what it takes to earn Michelin hats. Phil is now home in Adelaide, and after a stint as Head Chef at Lochiel House, he brings his unique blend of global understanding and passion for the local produce available to him to The Daniel O’Connell.

The Daniel O’Connell was first licensed in 1850 as the Commercial Inn. The current building was built in 1881 at the same time as the many of the other buildings that were proudly situated in North Adelaide’s “High Street” by the town planners. The hotel changed its name from the North Adelaide Hotel to the Daniel O’Connell at the time of a refurbishment in the late 1990s and proudly maintains the Irish connection of North Adelaide’s heritage.

PHOTOS: My EPIC Meal at The Daniel O’Connell

Ox Heart, Oyster, Caper, Cornichons at The Daniel O'Connell, Adelaide Australia
“Dead Romance” Ox Heart, Oyster, Caper, Cornichons

Tartar of salmon belly w puffed wild rice at The Daniel O'Connell, Adelaide Australia
Tartar of Salmon Belly with Puffed Wild Rice

Pig Head torchon, gribiche, quince, leaves at The Daniel O'Connell, Adelaide Australia
Pig Head Torchon, Gribiche, Quince, Leaves

Morels, Egg (hidden), Asparagus at The Daniel O'Connell, Adelaide Australia
Morels, Egg (hidden), Asparagus

Ox Tongue: Fresh, fermented #kohlrabi & horseradish at The Daniel O'Connell, Adelaide Australia
Ox Tongue: Fresh, Fermented Kohlrabi & horseradish (additional photo)

Blood Orange Soufflé, Malt Chocolate parfait at The Daniel O'Connell, Adelaide Australia
Blood Orange Soufflé, Malt Chocolate parfait

The Daniel O'Connell, Adelaide Australia
BadAss (and super talented) Chefs Phil Whitmarsh and Aaron Gillespie.

A few wines I tried at The Daniel O'Connell, Adelaide Australia
Wine (and Scotch!) paired beautifully by Cameron Frost.

Thanks you so much for the suggestion Darren!

Fergus Henderson & Phil WhitmarshAbove Tasting Menu from September 14, 2013

The Daniel O’Connell Pub
165 Tynte Street, North Adelaide,
South Australia 5006
Website

Follow the Daniel O’Connell on twitter

Follow Aaron Gillespie on twitter

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Fergus Henderson visited the Daniel O’Connel Pub in May 2014. Photo by John Krüger (used with permission).

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Chef Alla Wolf-Tasker

I LOVED meeting Chef Alla Wolf-Tasker! What a force...Last September, when I was on assignment in Australia, I didn’t get the chance to eat at Alla Wolf-Tasker’s revered Lake House Restaurant in Victoria.

To be perfectly honest, until my eye-opening visit, I didn’t know much about the culinary scene Down Under.

Lake House (celebrating 30 years!) is about a 90-minute drive from Melbourne, situated on the shores of Lake Daylesford in Victoria’s spa country. From what I’ve seen in these photos, the property (which covers 6 acres) looks spectacular, and it’s now on my travel “bucket list”.

From the restaurant website:

Alla Wolf-Tasker is credited with the establishment and growth of Daylesford and surrounds as a premier food and wine destination. Over three decades of honing Lake House into the mecca for foodie travellers that it is, she has fostered a network of excellent local suppliers and in the process succeeded in putting Daylesford on the culinary map.

Lake House boasts one of Australia’s most highly awarded restaurants and a New York Wine Spectator award winning wine list and cellar of some 10,000 bottles. The menu offers modern Australian cuisine paying homage to the region’s excellent seasonal produce. Local and seasonal may be a marketing mantra nowadays, but the ‘sense of place’ philosophy that imbues all of Lake House has operated here from day one.

In November I was invited by Tourism Australia to attend a dinner at the prestigious James Beard House in New York. The theme was “Evenings Afar: Australia” and Chef Alla Wolf-Tasker was center stage. This was my first visit to Beard House, and I was thrilled to be included on the guest list.

My first bite of Chef Alla’s food? Kangaroo tartare of course! The entire meal was stunning and included an exceptional pork dish I still think about today.

Meeting the chef was a thrill as well and we often engage via social media. If you love food AND travel, do follow her at @WolfInKitchen.

Chef Alla Wolf-Tasker at Beard House 11/22/13

JamesBeard1

Chef Alla Wolf-Tasker's dinner at Beard House, NYC
A few drinks in the back garden before dinner…

Chef Alla Wolf-Tasker's dinner at Beard House, NYC
I almost tripped over this life-size sculpture in the back garden… This must be HIS head, right?

Chef Alla Wolf-Tasker's dinner at Beard House, NYC
Kangaroo Tartar with Pepper Berries and Bush Tomatoes, Beet Crostini before heading upstairs to dinner (the only decent food photo I captured).

Chef Alla Wolf-Tasker's dinner at Beard House, NYC
We drank heaps of gorgeous wine (listed below), provided by Wine Australia.

At this point, the lights were dimmed for dinner service and there was no way I could adequately capture Chef Alla’s beautiful food with my iPhone camera. To be blunt, my photos were crap. Thankfully the chef’s team sent me some lovely images taken in the bright Beard House kitchen. See complete menu below.

Smoked Eel with Pancetta, Beet Rémoulade and Horseradish
Smoked Eel with Pancetta, Beet Rémoulade and Horseradish (Photo provided by James Beard House and Tourism Australia)

Butter-Poached Pheasant with Foraged Mushrooms and Black Truffles
Butter-Poached Pheasant with Foraged Mushrooms and Black Truffles (Photo provided by James Beard House and Tourism Australia)

Pork Croustillant with Choucroute Garnie
Pork Croustillant with Choucroute Garnie (Photo provided by James Beard House and Tourism Australia)

Brioche French Toast with Goat Cheese and Local Pears
Brioche French Toast with Goat Cheese and Local Pears (Photo provided by James Beard House and Tourism Australia)

Late Harvest Apples with Caramel, Buttermilk, Honey and Oatmeal
Late Harvest Apples with Caramel, Buttermilk, Honey and Oatmeal (Photo provided by James Beard House and Tourism Australia)

Chef Alla Wolf-Tasker's dinner at Beard House, NYC
I snapped this Beard portrait quickly on my way to the loo… James Beard’s LOO.
The table I dined at can be seen in this Beard House library virtual tour (near left bookcase).

Chef Alla Wolf-Tasker's dinner at Beard House, NYC
A quick peek in the Beard House kitchen. Tight quarters… check out the floor plan here.

Australian Chef Alla Wolf-Tasker and her crew
Chef Alla Wolf-Tasker (center) with her hard-working crew in the Beard House kitchen  (Photo provided by James Beard House and Tourism Australia)

Chef Alla Wolf-Tasker's dinner at Beard House, NYC
Beard House kitchen equipment… touched by so many world-class chefs, past and present.

Chef Alla Wolf-Tasker’s Beard House Menu

Chestnut–Armagnac Velouté
Kangaroo Tartare with Pepper Berries and Bush Tomatoes
Endive with Fresh Curds and Grain–Seed Praline
Wine: NV Plunkett Fowles Stone Dwellers Sparkling Chardonnay Pinot Noir

Freshwater Trout with Buckwheat Vinaigrette and Fennel
Wine: Plunkett Fowles, Ladies Who Shoot their Lunch, Riesling 2012

Smoked Eel with Pancetta, Beet Rémoulade, and Horseradish
Wine: Heggies Chardonnay Eden Valley 2011

Pork Croustillant with Choucroute Garnie
Wine: Giant Steps Pinot Noir 2012

Butter-Poached Pheasant with Foraged Mushrooms and Black Truffles
Wine: D’Arenberg Derelict Vineyard Grenache 2009

Brioche French Toast with Goat Cheese and Local Pears
Late Harvest Apples with Caramel, Buttermilk, Honey, and Oatmeal
Macarons
Wine: Yalumba Museum Reserve Tawny Barossa Dessert Wine

Learn more about Chef Alla Wolf-Tasker:
“How Alla Wolf-Tasker’s Lake House has lasted 30 years in the tough restaurant game” by Michael Bailey

James Beard Foundation
167 W 12th St.
New York, NY 10011
(212) 675-4984
website   twitter

Lake House
King Street Daylesford 3460 Victoria, Australia
info@lakehouse.com.au
+61 (03) 5348 3329
website   twitter

The Lake House Cooking School

Follow Chef Alla Wolf-Tasker on twitter

How Chefs are invited to cook at Beard House

Meal and Travel generously paid for by Tourism Australia. 

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